I always use Dorock, a cement backer board
A third option deserves mention - the integrated backers and membranes such as Kerdi Board and Wedi Board, and the pre-formed shower pans and drains from the same manufacturers. While the material costs of these products are much higher than for the older methods, the labor costs are lower. That trade-off is very sensible for contractors and property owners for high-end projects and in areas where labor costs are high.
Backer boards due to the oversized tile being offer in todays market, also the durability of the boards.
Durock, then Waterproofing membrane, sheet or liquid.
For wall installations, most contractors use concrete board of some sort. There are, generally speaking, three types of board: First: The āconcreteā board which is actual concrete between two layers of mesh which can be easily scored and snapped. Second: There is a concrete āfiberā board which is a mixture of fiber and cement (most notably Hardi board). These are harder to snap and usually require a carbide scoring tool for the thinner ones or, (my personal preference), a diamond cutting blade on an angle grinder for the thicker boards. Third: There are the ānon-concreteā boards, (WEDI and Schluter Ditra) These weigh very little and can be cut with a utility knife. The have a layer of extruded polystyrene foam between two layers of mesh with a concrete coating. All three boards work well and create a very stable substrate for tile installation. The āthicksetā method of floating the wall with concrete is a time honored method which takes a long time and is more expensive, but allows a greater level of customization. With this method, you can create curved walls, and float across differences in height which otherwise might need a lot of labor to fix. a lot of contractors like to roll a water proof membrane over the concrete board such as āRed Guardā and this does add a level of protection against water penetration, however, a properly set tile job, grouted and sealed will keep the water out from behind the tile. Concrete board is not prone to deterioration with moisture and the non-concrete boards donāt need a vapor barrier as they are completely non permeable and contain nothing that mold or mildew can grow on or eat. The trick is sealing the grout and keeping it sealed. Gravity will force water to accumulate at the pan and a properly installed pan will take that water and run it into the drain. I hope this answers your question without too much added nonsense. Sincerely M
I am in the middle of my second shower using hardi backer board. The first one was 27 yrs ago when I did my mothers shower . Thats when I fell in love with the trade. I went to a carpet/tile store every day looking for a job until they did. I was trained by a journeyman tile setter how to do tile work the proper way. The same way they have been doing it for the last 2000 years. Hardi backer belongs on floors and floors only. Mud float is the only proper way of installing tile in a wet area period.
I think the best for the shower walls is to use green board and Kerdi Mat .I prefer to spend little bit more money and play safe coze water is the anemy of any other building materials .
-We use Schluter products for Steam room enclosures like the 4x8x Ā½" boards,ā
for ceilings.
-For shower pans again Schluter waterproofed pre-sloped trays and for the custom design bed mortars , we pour in place and waterproofing it with the Schluter Membrane.
-Integration of the Schluter drain flange or linear drains is habitual. No more hudge-pudge 1990s - Oatley pan liners and drains; theyāre just water collectors and eventually leak.
Use the best. Learn it and use it Schluter.
-For tiled floors use Schluter Kerdi uncoupling membrane the ā
or ā
thickness. It prevents cracking, by allowing up to ā
" movement within the subfloors.
-For tiled shower walls that are not associated with vapor pressure and considered just regular wet areas with minimum vapor, we tackle these 3 ways.
- Durock sheeting, screwed with the smooth side out. Mud/mortar all corners, screw heads, seams. Sand the rougher areas after drying and applying AquaDefense waterproofing-2 coats
- same as logic #1 except we use Schluter membrane 8ml or 10 ml thickness, wrapping the interior enclosure up to 6 ft high. Use a ā " square notched trowel for this application and absolutely the best thinset money can buy. Donāt cheap out on the thinsets here.35$ a bag is insurance. Follow the ANSi directions on the bag ,thatās required for waterproofing membranes. Mapey is approved by Schluter , without voiding warranty.
- this one is not recommended , if one is a novice, just beginning to experiment with Schluter products and thinset applications.
Using board or blue board drywall, well glued and carefully screwed into the studs. Mixing half a bucket of thinset prior to installing, will provide a way of: 1 - using it as bonding agent to between stud and Gypsum sheeting; and 2: if wall are out of kilter /out of bubble, mudd can be pasted onto the studs up to Ā½" thick, then sheeting placed and tampered with a long level,as necessary for leveling. Using a few Screws per sheet, those should be driven in just enough to attach and squeeze lightly the wet thinsets. After curing occurs, additional screws will be necessary to substantially perform a good installation. (This may sound complicated, but it, will provide level surfaces for the tile installations; Especially when installing small size or mosaic tiles.)
However if you want ,skip the above step appling the glue and screws technique for installing sheeting .
Trowel with mud the corners, seams, screws heads.
IMPORTANT: WHIPE DRYWALL FACE WITH A WET SPONGE. SKIM COAT THE ENTIRE SHEETING SURFACE . ADJUST THE THINNESS OF YOUR MUD ACCORDING TO THIS PROCESS AND AS YOU LIKE. Set a fan on it and dry faster if you like to move on to the next step.
Ultimately- use 8ml or 10ml Schluter membrane and wrap the walls( up to 6 ft and down to overlap the shower bed at least 2").
Note: 2 inch minimum on any over material overlap.
I use wet sponges as thinset dry up to smooth out my future installation surfaces and knock down any uneven areas.
I warranty all my products/ projects for lifetime, or as long as that homeowner owns that property. Never had a call back for water damages or other issues cracking and such.
Always be aware and cautious which thinsets to use and allowing a longer mixing time is also very important .
God bless you and God bless America!
Mr M.
Durock was a big item used for backer board that replaced many other time consuming labor intensive methods. Although durock is a good cementitious backer board it consists of fibers and when cutting it it tends to crumble and this is not what you want around your newly finished tub if you are doing a wall surround letās say. Little pieces of cementitious material falling off on installation into your tub regardless off how careful you are just isnāt good, and its messy cutting it do to its breakability. Iām sure other contractors can contest I also donāt understand why they lip out the long edge of both sides of the board all this has ever done for me is interfere with an awesome tile job by creating a bump. All that being said Hardi-backer board, I believe, is the way to go if you want to use cement board. It cuts clean no breakage at all. You can cut it easily with a concrete cutting blade on a circ saw. Its flat with no swells or edging issues and can fit tight, its edging is very clean. Now with all that being said there are also new products out there that donāt carry that kind of weight and can be used today that come in 4 x 8 foot sheets instead of 3 x 5, check them out, Dural makes a product like that Foam backer board. What you are planning to tile, itās application and type of tile along with the environment you are going to tile in is what you want to weigh when deciding what to use. Schluter is great to use especially for shower pans and if you have one an irregular size. Their pans are completely size customizable to an irregular dimension you may have or want to use. This is an awesome option instead of paying boo-koo bucks for a custom made or poured pan of composite material to install to a specific dimension. So in my experiences of 35 plus years the biggest issue is just what you want to do where. Then just determine the best method, and a lot of times multiple methods can be used, and then go from there. Thatās what customerās use us for are input and experience and the ability to then complete said work.