In Florida, the common practice is to use the backer board. Both methods are acceptable, with little cost variation. The determining factors are Architect, the Contractor expertise and the local Building Departments, which are more likely to pass inspection depending on the method they see most frequently.
Personally my company uses Hardi-Backer board, its a masonry type backer board and is resistant to moisture. Companies in the past used green board, some companies still use it is cheaper than masonry backer boards.
I use kirdy waterproff membrain,it can be installed directly over green board or backer board.The membrain is completly water/mosture proff.As for any backerboard is usally waterproff mosture resistant,which is measured by flow testing.Water will travel through the board just not at a high rate.
A good tile setter floats all his work for straightness.
For installing shower wall tile, the trend in high-end remodeling and custom work is toward a concrete backer board - most commonly Durock or Hardibacker - covered with a membrane - either a liquid like RedGard or a sheet such as Schluter Kerdi or Wedi. I only mention the brands as example. In new construction, particularly in multi-home developments, the choice is driven more by cost, and many shower installations are still done with mastic over decay-resistant gypsum board.
An old-school floated underlayment - really a floated portland cement plaster - is uncommon these days: it’s much more expensive due to the labor time required. We do a floated underlayment only when the walls are curved or otherwise don’t accommodate a backerboard. Properly installed, backer-board and floated underlayments should both be permanently durable and waterproof.
The floor or pan is another question entirely - many techniques, materials, and manufacturers, some old and some new, are available for floors/pans.
Dura rock will our choice,the way to do it that is the old way is laying grid mesh and about 1/2 inch layer of cement.make sure you dont change your mind cause the second option is hard to remove…
Both options are acceptable in California, and what we use depends on the shower tile chosen. When client’s choose ceramic, they can usually find quarter round to cover the cement build-up for a smooth finish, but natural stone needs to fit closer to the wall, and the edges are usually hand finished, so we use hardi-board. It depends on client preference, design, and local building codes, but either option creates a solid back for tile and a sound waterproof base
We mainly use backer board in the Midwest but have floated some showers
Dura Rock for Hardibacker or the most part in showers…as long as the framing is plumb and the pan is true should have no problems. In some cases we will float if evident low spots are present before setting tile.Even after hot mop,or membrane of the pan area,I will recheck to make sure walls are true and float if needed. The old school way is still done with the mesh and cement, depending on design specs.
Our common practice for walls is installing 1/2" Durock in showers and setting all tiles in thinset. For shower bases we use a waterproof system by Wedi. For floors either a mud base or Durock, depending on floor conditions. When installed CORRECTLY any approved method will suffice.
I prefer to use a backer board behind tile. I use Hardie Backer as it’s easiest and most cost effective product that I have found. It’s also easier to be plumb and level with a backer system. An analogy, if you look at older homes that used plaster on the walls, you rarely find walls that are plumb and level vs those that are sheet rocked. It doesn’t mean floating cement can’t be done but for the masses, a proven backer system makes most sense.
Additionally, it depends on the individual installer. Each installer has come up with installation practices they have found that works best for them.
There are several methods to tiling a walk-in shower, one is the mud float, then there’s the Cement backer boards, and then there’s the Schluter system’s Kerdi mat. I personally prefer the Mud float when it comes to tiling walk-in Showers, with the mud Float you are able to create a Monolithic ( one piece)Shower shell where the walls, the curb and the pan are all muded the same day By muding the entire Walk-in Shower the same day that allows the entire shower when in use to expand and contract at the same rate thus reducing the possibility of cracks or separations at corner walls and where the pan meets the walls and where the curb meets the wall reducing the possibility of water damage, mildew growth and calcium leaching in between the tiles/grout. Cement Boards and Schluter system’s are great for everything else, such as Floors, Tub Surrounds, Counters, but Walk in Showers, if improperly installed or incorporated 2 different types of backers then the Home owner must be prepared to learn how to use a Caulking Gun, because they will be in for a lot of caulking in hopes that the mildew will stop it won’t , leaks will stop, they won’t, calcium deposits will continue and no cleanser will remove them properly. Here is a photo where the entire Shower mud floated the same day https://www.filepicker.io/api/file/uBT5nVnkSwmFHr29kfIo/convert?&w=200&h=200&fit=crop and here is a photo of the Shower as it nears completion, https://www.filepicker.io/api/file/Fx3rxblZTriLvu9kL1RK/convert?w=200&h=200&fit=crop because the shower was Mud Floated chances are very good that this Shower will out last the Building. Good luck with your Tiling Projects.
In Arizona we usually float the mudd walls this makes a strong and straight surface for the tile to set to. If the client is trying to keep costs down we will use hardy backer as it is more cost effective.
Mud floating is an art and not all contractors who install wall tile can do it efficiently. Taking into account exisitng architecture, products being used and application should ultimately affect your decision. When using cement board (whether a tub surround or full shower), it is extremely important to "seal " any/all openings in/around cement board i.e. butt joints and screw holes; this step is crucial. I recommend floating over butt jointswith mortar and using silicone over screw holes and all perimeter areas. Next, cover all wall areas with a waterproof membrane.this can be rolled on like paint; once dry, it has a “rubbery” feeling coating not allowing for moisture penetration. Moisture can leach through cementious boards and wall cement and you don’t want that.
When installing shower wall tile backer board is recomended due to the moister. As well as sealing all joints with mesh tape and red-guard which prevents any type,of water moister to penetrate throigh. Therefore preventing any damage to wall studs.
When installing tile in a shower area you should use cement board on the walls and Mud float the shower base tile. Always remember when tiling a shower pan, you want to use a rubber base liner to prevent seapage.
MOST contractors will use Backer Board. For mere speed and labor cost.
I would answer most tile contractors use backer board these days to install showers, tub surrounds. Of course speed and cost always factor into todays building practices. I have seen few projects exculding rounded surfaces that the installer has taken the time to properly float a shower. I worked with a true perfectionist tile setter a few years ago and he was one that preferred floating the project.
The problem is the cost of labor always tripled over cement backer board installations.
i do many bathrooms each year and i use the schuter kerdi system. i will use hardi backer with kerdi atop or kerdi board, as for the pan/floor. i use schulter pre formed pans ,